Brass is a restaurant that makes adults feel younger. It has all the buzz of an Instagram-fueled restaurant aimed at the Gen Z trust fund crowd, but with a higher level of comfort, professional service and a French-American menu that makes “traditional” look trendy.
Nestled deep inside the century-old Evelyn Hotel at 7 E. 27th St., the plush and lovely Brass is an Art Deco-inspired jewelry box. Designed to evoke the “golden age” of New York society, it is the newest entry in Nomad’s growing hotel-dining scene, which now includes Cafe Carmellini at Fifth Avenue Hotel, Jose Andres’ Bazaar and Zaitainiya at The Ritz-Carlton Nomad and Cecconi is in Ned.
Brass is the brainchild of the duo behind wild wine bistro-bar Wildair, Jeremiah Stone and Fabián von Hauske Valtierra. They teamed up with owner Nick Hatsatouris to take over what was formerly Benno, an upscale Italian spot that fell victim to the pandemic.
The 70-seat Brass opened last month right behind its “sister” bar Tusk Bar, cocktails and oysters from the same lounge team. Hatsatouris said patrons can “start their evening at Tusk Bar, then move to Brass.” To each their own, but given how hard the tables are to tackle at Brass, you can’t just walk your way through a few King Tusk martinis at Tusk.
The house was quiet on my first visit, a Monday. The sexiness of suede and leather banquettes, white tablecloths and 1920s-influenced frescoes—and an antique piano in the middle of the floor—suggested a party waiting to begin. A few couples engaged in solitary canoeing, while others peered curiously through the window of the brick wall.
But the place catches fire on other nights. On my recent Wednesday visit, the level of glamor matched the food. Every meal should start with an eight-grain ring of buttery Gruyere cheese that can fill you up if you’re not careful.
Black truffles and rich fall sauces color the menu without overpowering it. I loved the crispy crab and maitake mushroom tartlets with a small truffle on top and ricotta gnudi pillow. The steelhead trout with smoked trout roe and delicate citrus sauce was pink and nice under the clean skin.
American Wagyu steak and pork shoulder in mustard sauce, both ordered medium-rare, were raw and overly chewy; even my beef-loving friend, who can eat armadillo raw, found the steak challenging for teeth or a knife (though he finished it).
The pride of the house is the Amish chicken wheel in an upscale twist. The breast and leg are skin-wrapped, stuffed with sausage and sliced under a herb and truffle mousseline. The bird, deeply flavored and moist, graduated from a B-plus to an A with a light bath of extra juice. Be sure to ask for it if there is not enough in the tray. It’s $120, but it easily feeds three or four normal people.
It was hard to top, but the best dessert – the Brass Cup – was as fun as it was ridiculous, with the concord grape granita crunching over the popcorn ice cream.
The only downside to Brass is the soundtrack. One night accidentally collided between romantic French cabaret vocals and hard funk/rap. Another time, it came and went like a siren in the night.
To avoid it, go on a Tuesday, Friday or Saturday night when a human being plays the piano – and the “golden age” almost lives again.
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Image Source : nypost.com